There are times when you feel like a vacation and not the lie on the beach kind but a salt-of-the-sea adventure where you will leave with more than a great tan. So in search of such an experience I found myself and my husband of three and a half months in Croatia on a sail boat named “Stella”.
Stella lies anchored out in the harbor gently bobbing in the Adriatic Sea’s azul water surrounded by rocky islands. As I climb up on deck and look around, there are so many islands I get confused as to which land is the mainland and which are really islands. Most of the islands have long rock walls dividing every bit of land into small irregularly, shaped parcels. These islands now lie barren. They are victims of thousands of years of severe erosion exposing their stony rust colored soil to the warm September sun. Their rock walls appear to me as a memorial to the back breaking toil that the Croatian’s once did in order to cultivate these lands. Approximately 1,246 islands make up Croatia’s famed archipelago. Most of the rugged islands are small and uninhabited but they make for a sailing trip filled with the excitement of seeing what is around each drop of land.
We’re not the only ones discovering Croatia. Croatia’s tourism boom is a major economic driver. Fueled by European budget airlines; the lure of the walled cities and pebble beaches are drawing Europeans to the former Yugoslavia. Yes Yugoslavia is dissolved, the war is over and Croatia is doing all it can to reclaim its status as a top European destination.
Paul and I sailed off from the island of Murter with three other students and a Skipper/Instructor onboard. All of our sail mates are residents of the United Kingdom. When I first saw Stella, I wondered how we could all possibly stay on such a tiny boat. Yet she was quite deceiving as there are three cabins and the skipper sleeps in the salon. It is not roomy but it is adequate, much like a camper on the water. Life on the water in a small sailboat has its quirks like learning to sleep in our triangle shaped bed in the bow and the detailed operation of the hand-pump operated toilet. It’s really a lot of great fun and the small space and the shared breakfast and lunch facilitates communication with your sail-mates. We all come from very different backgrounds. Paul and I are the youngest onboard. In the two weeks that we sail, we sail with a: doctor, financial analyst, social worker, businessman, journalist and a realtor. We all have very limited sailing experience—our previous experience consists of a few hours aboard a sailboat in a sheltered harbor.
Growing up in the Midwest I have always had a fascination with the unknown sea and travel. So learning to sail was an exciting endeavor. I had done quite a bit of research and finally settled on a sailing school based out of Betina harbor on the island of Murter. Their goal is to teach you to sail or al least provide an opportunity and environment in which to do so. You can do as much or as little as you want in the pursuit of this goal. We set out to do it all. We sailed with a flotilla of seven to fifteen sailboats. Each morning we have briefing for the entire flotilla and discuss where we would go that evening, possible dangers along the way and ideal bays for lunch. Then each boat sets out, setting its individual route to the evening’s destination. We chart out our desired route. Each sailor takes turns navigating through the various duties. Jib, jibe, leech, luff, stanchion, tack, leeward, cleat…I silently practice my new vocabulary as my eyes wander around the boat.
The seas calm surface has been broken by the wind, the prospects for the days sailing seemed more promising after a couple of days of almost dead calm. The wind gradually gets stronger as we motor out of the harbor. I pull the sail up and the wind fills it making it snap--satisfied and full. As we trim the sails the boat finds the zone and goes slightly on edge and gradually speeds up to 5 knots—this is the fastest that we have went in days. Everyone brims with energy now that Croatia’s famed winds have made their appearance. The winds are known personally by the locals and named: Tramontana, Bura, Lavant, Ostro, Jugo, Pulenot, Lebic and Maestral due to their ferocity, direction and character. We let out the sails more than necessary just to set the boat at such an angle the rails now and then touch the water. Soon though we trim the sails are to more efficiently sail in the strong breeze. The Skipper calls out and the replies sound, “Ready about…Ready…Helm to lee…Lee ho”. We tack about, my arms begin to ache as we tack our way up the narrow channel against the wind.
Around 1:00 PM each day we sail in to a nice bay and anchor. Eating a sandwich, Greek salad and fresh fruit for lunch I eye the water and the coastline. Finished with my lunch I determine my destination and jump in but soon return to the boat for my snorkel. Snorkeling—I love it. Even though the crystal blue waters off Croatia’s coast are quite lifeless just seeing the rocky bottom and the sea cucumbers entertains me as I paddle around. Tired I crawl back aboard the boat and lie on the sun-warmed deck reading and drying off until about 3 pm when we sail off for our evening anchoring spot.
For the last week we sail into numerous harbors some populated with fleets of sailboats, luxury yachts and fishing boats. These offer amenities such as hot showers, groceries and fresh water. Other nights we spend at desolate peaceful ports. Some of these harbors have no dock. We paddle to the shore in little inflatable boats by twos and threes.
Most of the flotillas party gathers each night for dinner and drinks. The calamari here is incredible and I am tempted to order it each time I go out. Some nights we choose to set off on our own and explore the places we have made our home for the evening. We wander the narrow streets and walkways in the old villages along the coast. Then we return to the boat and make a dinner of pasta and enjoy a local wine. The restaurants here are expensive--around $45 for a basic (no drinks or fish) meal for two. We had not expected eating out to be so much but eating in is a fun option.
As we sailed back into the Betina marina on the island of Murter after two weeks of sailing, I look out over the boat in a familiar manner. We are no longer strangers. I am confident and in control of the boat both under motor and sail. Masterfully tying knots and talking the lingo; I am able at the helm or as a crew member. Stella and I have spent fourteen days together sailing Croatia’s coast. Paul and I pack our bags and leave Stella placing certificates stating that we are now Flotilla Skippers in our backpacks. I am tan, my arms are sore, I understand basic sailing and I feel as though I can say I have experienced Croatia’s northern coast.
Stella lies anchored out in the harbor gently bobbing in the Adriatic Sea’s azul water surrounded by rocky islands. As I climb up on deck and look around, there are so many islands I get confused as to which land is the mainland and which are really islands. Most of the islands have long rock walls dividing every bit of land into small irregularly, shaped parcels. These islands now lie barren. They are victims of thousands of years of severe erosion exposing their stony rust colored soil to the warm September sun. Their rock walls appear to me as a memorial to the back breaking toil that the Croatian’s once did in order to cultivate these lands. Approximately 1,246 islands make up Croatia’s famed archipelago. Most of the rugged islands are small and uninhabited but they make for a sailing trip filled with the excitement of seeing what is around each drop of land.
We’re not the only ones discovering Croatia. Croatia’s tourism boom is a major economic driver. Fueled by European budget airlines; the lure of the walled cities and pebble beaches are drawing Europeans to the former Yugoslavia. Yes Yugoslavia is dissolved, the war is over and Croatia is doing all it can to reclaim its status as a top European destination.
Paul and I sailed off from the island of Murter with three other students and a Skipper/Instructor onboard. All of our sail mates are residents of the United Kingdom. When I first saw Stella, I wondered how we could all possibly stay on such a tiny boat. Yet she was quite deceiving as there are three cabins and the skipper sleeps in the salon. It is not roomy but it is adequate, much like a camper on the water. Life on the water in a small sailboat has its quirks like learning to sleep in our triangle shaped bed in the bow and the detailed operation of the hand-pump operated toilet. It’s really a lot of great fun and the small space and the shared breakfast and lunch facilitates communication with your sail-mates. We all come from very different backgrounds. Paul and I are the youngest onboard. In the two weeks that we sail, we sail with a: doctor, financial analyst, social worker, businessman, journalist and a realtor. We all have very limited sailing experience—our previous experience consists of a few hours aboard a sailboat in a sheltered harbor.
Growing up in the Midwest I have always had a fascination with the unknown sea and travel. So learning to sail was an exciting endeavor. I had done quite a bit of research and finally settled on a sailing school based out of Betina harbor on the island of Murter. Their goal is to teach you to sail or al least provide an opportunity and environment in which to do so. You can do as much or as little as you want in the pursuit of this goal. We set out to do it all. We sailed with a flotilla of seven to fifteen sailboats. Each morning we have briefing for the entire flotilla and discuss where we would go that evening, possible dangers along the way and ideal bays for lunch. Then each boat sets out, setting its individual route to the evening’s destination. We chart out our desired route. Each sailor takes turns navigating through the various duties. Jib, jibe, leech, luff, stanchion, tack, leeward, cleat…I silently practice my new vocabulary as my eyes wander around the boat.
The seas calm surface has been broken by the wind, the prospects for the days sailing seemed more promising after a couple of days of almost dead calm. The wind gradually gets stronger as we motor out of the harbor. I pull the sail up and the wind fills it making it snap--satisfied and full. As we trim the sails the boat finds the zone and goes slightly on edge and gradually speeds up to 5 knots—this is the fastest that we have went in days. Everyone brims with energy now that Croatia’s famed winds have made their appearance. The winds are known personally by the locals and named: Tramontana, Bura, Lavant, Ostro, Jugo, Pulenot, Lebic and Maestral due to their ferocity, direction and character. We let out the sails more than necessary just to set the boat at such an angle the rails now and then touch the water. Soon though we trim the sails are to more efficiently sail in the strong breeze. The Skipper calls out and the replies sound, “Ready about…Ready…Helm to lee…Lee ho”. We tack about, my arms begin to ache as we tack our way up the narrow channel against the wind.
Around 1:00 PM each day we sail in to a nice bay and anchor. Eating a sandwich, Greek salad and fresh fruit for lunch I eye the water and the coastline. Finished with my lunch I determine my destination and jump in but soon return to the boat for my snorkel. Snorkeling—I love it. Even though the crystal blue waters off Croatia’s coast are quite lifeless just seeing the rocky bottom and the sea cucumbers entertains me as I paddle around. Tired I crawl back aboard the boat and lie on the sun-warmed deck reading and drying off until about 3 pm when we sail off for our evening anchoring spot.
For the last week we sail into numerous harbors some populated with fleets of sailboats, luxury yachts and fishing boats. These offer amenities such as hot showers, groceries and fresh water. Other nights we spend at desolate peaceful ports. Some of these harbors have no dock. We paddle to the shore in little inflatable boats by twos and threes.
Most of the flotillas party gathers each night for dinner and drinks. The calamari here is incredible and I am tempted to order it each time I go out. Some nights we choose to set off on our own and explore the places we have made our home for the evening. We wander the narrow streets and walkways in the old villages along the coast. Then we return to the boat and make a dinner of pasta and enjoy a local wine. The restaurants here are expensive--around $45 for a basic (no drinks or fish) meal for two. We had not expected eating out to be so much but eating in is a fun option.
As we sailed back into the Betina marina on the island of Murter after two weeks of sailing, I look out over the boat in a familiar manner. We are no longer strangers. I am confident and in control of the boat both under motor and sail. Masterfully tying knots and talking the lingo; I am able at the helm or as a crew member. Stella and I have spent fourteen days together sailing Croatia’s coast. Paul and I pack our bags and leave Stella placing certificates stating that we are now Flotilla Skippers in our backpacks. I am tan, my arms are sore, I understand basic sailing and I feel as though I can say I have experienced Croatia’s northern coast.
1 comment:
Sailing, Sailing--I am jealous you two will have to take us on a trip in a sail boat on the dam :)
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