Hiking in Innsbruck

Following the wedding it was off to the hills with some of our friends from Alaska and Jeff and Connie--the newlyweds.

We hiked in the Alps for a few days. We saw so many animals--goats, sheep, cattle. The little huts in the hills where you can get a bed and some great Austrian food often had heards of cattle, sheep or goats. You could hear the sound of the bells on the animals through out the mountains echoing through the valleys--it sounded as if some one was playing with bells. At first I did not believe that cattle could make so much noise with cow bells. The bells ring even as they sit there and chew their cud. The mountains were so beautiful.

Paul and I greatly enjoyed the dumplings and local beauty!

Austria

We said goodbye to our Slovenian Grandma that we had been staying with for a few days in her rental room. Grandma had told us so many things each day--all in Slovenian--but the time had come to leave for Austria.

So we were off we boarded the train and left for Innsbruck. Our friends were getting married near Connie's hometown of Thaur. So exciting to be going to a foreign wedding as niether of us had attended a wedding outside of the States. And so began the wedding weekend. I think that all Austrians must take classes in hospitality as all the guests raved about their host and Connie's family was so incredibly gracious.

Paul joined the guys for Jeff bachelor BBQ party up at a hut in the mountains while I hung out with the girls and sampled the local Schnapps made by a friend of the family. The next evening we all got together for the BBQ at Connie's parents--so much fun to see all the people from Alaska who were there for the wedding. Suddenly local folk dancers entered the backyard and began to do traditional Austrian dances they were dancing wíth hatchets and chopping this log--sort of a lumberjack tribute then came the salt miners tribute dance. Soon they had dragged Jeff into the circle and had him attemting to dance as well. It was such the experience.

The wedding took place in a beautiful location. A tiny chapel on a hill overlooking the mountains. The view--all around was mountains and we looked down at the valley. Then off to the reception and a incredible four course Austrian feast. The evening was filled with songs, skits, schnapps, singing and of course lots of dancing!

Slovenia

We arrived in the beautiful country of Slovenia. On the shores of Lake Bled we swam in this warm water lake and played in the local city swim hole. It was great and so relaxing. We hiked through Vintgar Gorge--the trail was created by attaching theboard walk directly to the rock cliffs along the river. The water was this amazingly clear teal color--so amazing to watch the fish all swimming in the holes.

Then off to the mountains! We took a bus south and started at Lake Bohinj. We set out for the Julian Alps. The Slovenians love to hike and I admit I was impressed at 70 plus year olds went by me on the path. We met an 84 year old man on a side trail--he and his wife who was close to the same age were hiking 600 steps to a local waterfall--he gave us all kinds of trail information.

We climbed and climbed from 650 meters to 2071 meters with our packs. We just jumped into it and it was great. We stayed and ate at mountain huts along the way. The one had the best view of the mountains--at the top of this little rock outcropping and a 360 view of mountains--I cant wait to post the photo. We hiked in the morning with Inge--a woman from Germany who has hiked all over the world.

Well then we went down and down and down the mountain and just managed to catch the bus we needed. Paul had to run and flag it down. So we were off to Bovec--a little tired and few a few blisters but mainly just sore toes from going down. We saw so many avalance sites and pine trees broken and laying on the snow in the canyons as we decended. So today we are sore but still walking.

Canyoning--we slipped into some neoprene suits, boots, and protective helmets and joined a group for going down the Soca River in an unusual way--by jumping down into clear pools and slidding down smooth water carved rack. The longest slide was 12 meters and there was an 8 meter slide into a cave--this was my favorite. Paul did a 15 meter jump into the water--I was too scared. It was so much fun just natural slide after another for 1.5 hours. WooHoo!

Canoeing the Vlata

Paul and I enjoyed South Bohemia so much that we returned to the region to do some canoeing. Little did we know what a popular choice that was. We rented a canoe from an agency and went to a little campsite where we would begin our 4 day paddle on the Vlata.

Well the little campsite that is the only one in town turned out to be home to thousands of Czech's who had 2 days of national vacation and canoeing the Vlata is an annual event for many families and groups of friends.

Day 1
We found but some miracle our canoe that we had rented amongst the thousands getting there canoes on the water after a long night of drinking and singing till dawn. We were off--part of the crowd, experiencing the culture and having a great time. The weirs--these are dam like things that usually have a ramp on the side for canoes to shoot down. We approached the first with apprehension, should we go for it? We did and came out dry. Whee--this is awesome!

The secound wier we approached and got in the canoe line to go over. We neglected out of our elation at completing the first to get out and scout the chute. We followed the canoes--they all seemed to be hugging the left side of the chute just next to the big dam. There was a straight 5-6 ft drop on the right side. Well we made down the chute, for a second all was well--then we hit the water "eddy" line from the big dam. I saw Paul leaning--suddenly the boat filled with water and we went over--into the rapids below the dam. There was a large rock at the bottom of the dam that had a boat wrapped "tacoed" around it. Paul and the canoe made it around one side of it and me the other. We bounced from one large boulder to another in the water--the current was strong and the banks were made of sloping cement. I saw Paul grab the canoe and I scrambled up on the bank and started going along side to catch up. Finally about 1/4 mile downstream we caught up with each other--we were both fine and all of our gear was still in the canoe which was also fine. We went back to the crash site to look for Paul's paddle. We found it and watched as yet anouther boat tacoed around the big boulder. We heard it crack. People and things were floating all over in the river. It was so crazy less than 50% of the canoes at times were making it through.

Well after awhile we had to leave the excitement and get back to our boat. We discovered that our waterproof containers were not so waterproof. We had to empty out all of our stuff and let it dry.

Well the next days followed the pattern of trying to dry out our gear, seeing castles in the distance, paddling past riverside beer gardens and incredible forests, looking for 2 square yards upon which to set our tent up on at the campsite and listening to lots of Czech drinking songs. On the third night it rained. Not just a little but a torrential downpour. Paul and I slept outside the camp sinks on a slab of cement as the tent was next to a new lake. So went our Czech holiday adventure--it was great.

Olde-Worlde Charm in Cesky Krumlov

Czech Police and Communism

We have checked out of the first hotel that we stayed in. As we were checking out we discovered that they were trying to overcharge us and we refused to pay. After arguing back and forth with the hotel clerk and saying that we were not going to pay the charges--she said that she would have to call the Czech Police on us if we left without paying "our bill".

Paul said that we would just go to the embassy--well we paid the correct part of the bill and just walked out of the hotel not sure of what was going to happen. Well we made it to the tram and out of the area--no police got us!

Now we have checked into our new hotel--its a former monestary that was changed into a Czech Secret Police Prision during the communist years. The former president was actually a prisoner there.

Today we took a tour regarding the Revolution. It was so interesting to learn about the people and how communism was outed 30 years after the student protests. Change comes but maybe not as fast as we think it should. The students in 1968 set something in place that did not come into being until 1989. After the tour we visted the Museum of Communism located above a Casino and next to McDonald's.

Czech Beer

The Czech's are famous for their beer and for good reason--some of the breweries that we have visited have been brewing since the 14th century.

We have actually went to a place where the beer was cheaper than water.

Prague Area Adventures

We are in Prague and have met up with Kimberly and her friend Anna whose family escaped from Czechslovakia in the early 80's. It is great to have her insight and knowledge of the language.

We have been exploring the region around Prague--visiting castles and churches. We are also getting to know the rail system. We had quite the adventure getting to Kutna Hora we mistakenly got on the express train and rolled past our stop plus some additional ones. We then caught a train going back to the place where we were supposed to switch trains and got off in the right town but at the wrong stop. We took a nice hike through the industrial train yard for quite awhile jumping into the ditch as trains passed and then managed a way out of the yard and a highway to find a bus to the correct station and find our correct train. Something that we hadn't planned on but quite the fun adventure.

We saw a church decorated with bones of the deceased from the plague and wars. Very unusual. Then we toured the former silver mining town of Kutna Hora--it was a very rich town at one time and has an incredible gothic cathedral. It is dedicated to St. Barbara the patron saint of miners.

Paris

Ah Paris The Eiffel Tower, Louvre, Notre Dame and the cafe we have enjoyed it all. Our cheap hotel honeymoon suite is located near Moulin Rouge. It consists of two twin beds shoved together and a bathroom that is so small you have to back in to close the door--there is no room for turns. Paul and I have laughed a lot about the crazy room--its real dirty but hey we are having a great time! We have been trying to not spend a lot of money on food. We have had great picnic with the Parisians in beuatiful parks. The French love to picnic like no culture I've ever seen--I enjoy it greatly. I am a picnic lover and Paul is begining to see the light :) What can you say and you lay in the grass eat your lunch and gaze up at the Eiffel Tower. We joined the city in thier annual celebration of soltice as musicians come out and almost every corner in some districts has street performers and musicians doing there act. We just wandered the city catching bits of classical Opera, the Eagles, break dancers, Jazz, mimes and everything in between. The streets were full like it was New Year's eve and people were all celebrating--it was so much fun.

Beaches of Normandy

We biked through Normandy and visited the invasion beaches. You realize the risks that were taken not only by the thousands that died on the shores but by Eisenhower for picking such a dificult region.

Normandy is beautiful farm country that sometimes goes right up to the sea. There is flax, corn, sunflowers, peas, mustard, winter wheat and hay ground all through out the region with lots of dairy cattle. I have never seen a region quite like it.

We were at Omaha beach and took this photo. I thought it was interesting as I don't think of tractors and the sea but here the farmers and the sea are somehow intertwined in a fascinating way.

People You Remember

You know those people that make a big impact on you for some crazy reason and whom you know don't remember you at all even though they have become legendary in your stories. So it is with Smoky McGee and the Walnut Man.

Paul and I met the Walnut Man in Saumur France at an interesting museum that talked about the process of extracting oil from nuts. The Walnut Man had a passion for nuts that I have never seen--he loved nuts. When he told us that alas France was Ninth in the world for walnut production you could hear the sadness and deep disapointment that such a thing could be. The US is number one in the world for walnut production and China number two--but it takes twice as mant nuts from China to make a kilo of oil as it does from the US or France. So since our tour we have been full of all kinds of nutty facts and Paul does a great inpersonation of the Walnut Man.

Smoky McGee--now here is a character! We were staying in Caen after visiting the WWII Museum of the Peace. We checked into our one star motel. We decided to go out for kebobs and save some money. Thus we went out for cheap kebobs--the cheapest food in France other than bread. I had settled down to sleep and Paul was sewing some gear.

Suddenly I awoke to Paul yelling at me to get up. The smoke alarms were going off. I hurried up and struggled to get dressed and we stumbled down the stairs. We met a group of fellow lodgers at the bottom. It appeared that there was no fire just a false alarm. One dishelved man in a suit paced back and forth. Then a thin blond woman walked down the steps and haughtily took a big puff of her cigarette accessed the situation calmly walked out the door at the alarms continued to scream and into the attached bar and returned with the hotel manager.

He proceded to eventually shut off the alarm and then he and the blond started screaming at each other in French and pointing at the alarm boxes. Eventually a black man who was a guest there joined in on the yelling as well. Smoky McGee kept her cool just yelling between smokes. Paul and I did not know what to do--after about 5 minutes we decided to just go back to our room as it did not appear that the place was in immediate danger. Paul checked our fire escape route and determined that we could walk out on the ledge and jump down to safety. I decided to go back to sleep.

Just as Paul was finishing his safety check and had crawled back inside there was a huge crash the sound of glass smashing everywhere. Paul ran to the window and the street was covered with glass--we did not know what had happend. Then upon climbing out on the ledge Paul saw Smoky McGee her back was covered in blood. Paul thought that she had been stabbed. Soon most all of the fellow lodgers were down in the street. We stayed in the room--after all the yelling from earlier we had no idea what had taken place. Soon we found out that the woman had fallen back first through the solid glass door. She stood out in the street covered in blood and glass all mixed in her hair and smoking. We were so suprised there were no cops or an ambulance. Around 45 minutes later an ambulance finally showed up and later the cops arrived. She put out her cigarette and got in the ambulance.

Her room was left open all night in the hotel. As we were getting ready to leave the next morning after a crazy night of dreams--the alarms went off. Smoky McGee had returned to the hotel...

Photos!!!

Our wedding photos are up and available to view at www.shalista.com
Click on Client Login and use the Password: kotelman

They are great!

Saving Money In The Loire Valley

Well today we set off into the French Countryside via bike. Its picturesque, quaint and full of wine, chateau's and caves along the Loire River.

We went over our budget in London and so decided to camp--we had talked about camping earlier in the planning process but decided to not carry the gear and just stay in real cheap hotels and hostels and get most of our food at the market. Well we changed our mind.

We pedaled all afternoon and as evening came and we were near the chateau that we wanted to tour the next day we looked for a place to camp. We had passed beautiful beaches all day so had not expected trouble in finding an ideal spot. We thought that we spied something along the river down the levee and through the woods. We took the bikes and headed down through the weeds. It was difficult to control the loaded bikes down the embankment and through the brush.

When we reached the bottom...Paul asked do your legs itch. They did like crazy, so we dug out the wipes and worked to dab our legs clean of the itch weed that we had just traipsed through.

Then the ideal campsite turned out to be a pile of mud...not wanting to crawl back up the embankment we each took off different ways to see what we could find. I found an old cement slab next to the river...this turned out to be the best spot. Then we chopped down reeds [a leave no trace no no] to lay on the cement slab through our silk sheet down and wa la a bed. I slept for around 20 minutes but can say that watching the moon rise, the stars, the moon set and the sun rise over the Loire River is a beautiful thing! I will post a picture later.

Tours, France

Ah France--the land of love, fine wine and being nervous about not knowing the language.

We are in Tours and are getting ready to set off on a bike tour of the Loire Valley and Normandy tommorow. I am ready for some biking!

As for the land of love and wine I think that having some fine french food and local wine makes all feel like love :)

London Ale

London--what a great city!

We have extended our stay here to further explore!

One of our big pursuits has been looking for the ultimate british beer. As for me I am not a big fan of the English beers--some tend to smell like sewer. We have found a lot of great pubs though and are looking for the best beer. The real ales are pumped into your glass from up open cask.

Our favorites were not an English Ale though came from a London microbrewery near Vinopolis and were the Meantime Chocolate and Coffee Stouts. So good!